Sommeliers on Why You Should Swap Big-Name Bubbly for Grower Champagne

Major accomplishments, celebrations of love and — of course — New Year's Eve. These occasions all call for a Champagne toast to make the moment.

While some producers have turned their brands into household names — Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Dom Pérignon and Perrier-Jouët were among the best-selling sparkling wines on Drizly in 2022 — that doesn't necessarily mean they're the best choice for every drinker.

Kelly Mitchell, sales representative for Skurnik Wines & Spirits, says she and her sommelier peers adore sparkling wine and get especially excited for the uncommon joy of sipping grower Champagne.

"Whenever I'm with my people, I feel like we always either end up or start with drinking Champagne," she told The Messenger. "We love bubbles, it's just our thing."

DJ Alston, an innovation manager for commercial wine, agrees.

"What most somms have in common is a love for bubbles," he told The Messenger. "Champagne, Cremants, Cavas, etc., are all great and getting a lot of love in the community."

Grower Champagne is made by the same people who grow grapes, rather than by Champagne houses, which typically use grapes from many different vineyards.

When she's looking for smaller production or something a little more nuanced that has more character than house Champagne, Mitchell and her wine expert pals pop open a bottle of grower Champagne.

"That's what we're going for when we drink those kinds of Champagnes in the first place," she says, adding that "we're looking for vinous characteristics."

If Champagne lovers want to something unique, different and rare, or if they want to experience a winemaker's style or get a sense of a specific subregion of Champagne, France, experts suggest seeking out a bottle of grower Champagne.

It can give you "a sense of place," Mitchell says.

House Champagne is still a good option, both Mitchell and Alston agree, especially if you're looking for consistency and familiarity.

It offers "a consistent style that can be counted upon time and time again" by the consumer, says Mitchell.

Plus, she adds, it's accessible and widely available to consumers.

"Grower Champagnes are usually more unique as the winemaker has more space to be creative," Alston says. "House Champagnes strive to deliver consistent style year after year. It's all about what you like."

Grower Champagne represents a small segment of the commercial Champagne market, Mitchell tells The Messenger.

According to Wine Enthusiast, it makes up less than 5% of total Champagne imported to the U.S.

These brands are mostly independently owned and operated, she adds, whereas house Champagnes have a larger presence with big marketing budgets and are attached to what have become known as luxury parent companies.

While you may have to do some research to find a retail store with a solid selection of grower Champagne, Mitchell says they have landed on many wine lists at restaurants that have sizable beverage programs.

If there's a Champagne section on the menu with more than just one or two options, there will likely be at least one grower on the list, she says.

Mitchell encourages consumers to get curious about the wines and Champagnes they're drinking.

"The more you expand your palate by trying new things, the more points of reference and the more clear you can become on your own personal preferences," she says.

If you're looking to drink like these sommeliers, they have a few bottles to recommend.

For a house Champagne, "Billecart-Salmon is a personal [favorite] at the moment," Alston suggests.

Mitchell's picks are both grower Champagnes.

"I've been drinking all kinds, but really been loving Champagne Margaine," she says.

She also highly recommends Marc Hébrart Rosé Brut NV, calling it very approachable and a crowd pleaser.

"I've tried it with many people," she says, "and it doesn't seem to be too polarizing."